the kingdom of salt

a summer-feel ride around Dead sea
Cestopis z výpravy „Jordan oh Jordan“ z roku 2018 napsala Monika

After consulting with our navigation we decide to take the shortest road to the Dead sea (number 35 and 60) so we could enjoy driving along the white shores of Dead sea. Our car gets heaten up (especialy the brakes) in the midle of route 60, driving down the serpentines full of sand - it gets really slidy and we have to stop for a moment to cool down the brakes (aka if you love driving, take this road also :-)).

route 60
the first view on Dead sea

We reach the white shores and air filled with salt in a while and together with summer songs from Israeli radio it feels perfect. Our destination is Amman beach - according to the recommendation of receptionist at Rafiki hostel, this beach is ideal for bathing (=no sharp salt crystals and it has showers) and free. On the road we are stopped twice by police, warning us about sand on the road (yeah, we noticed already) and getting friendly talk about Jordan.

We arrive to Amman beach at half past one, when it’s the right time to get a dip - weather outside is like during a summer. To our surprise we find out that entrance is not free, but 20 JOD. Of course, we don’t want to go for a tourist trap and we try the second entrance, 500m further. 12 JOD. Thanks for advice, Rafiki guy! It's probably the first time we seek for help of a tourist police (present everywhere) and ask him about free entrance. He tries to implicate that our beach is more on the left while trying to not upset the ticket guy at entrance. We get back to car and drive to first turn on right leading to a construction site and few huts of locals. Being brave tourists, we go to explore this junk yard. There is only a tiny piece of something reminding beach, with locals bathing in clothes, otherwise it's basically a dump. We come back to the 12 JOD entrance, negotiating a small discount. Passing thru entrance, we find ourselves in the vast old-style resort, just with few other people.

beach-dump with free entrance
safety intructions
a lesson of floating
the mud should be healthy and good for your skin (honestly, there was no improvement on him after :D )

Apparently, most of tourists go for the first option on the opposite side of fence, so we are enjoying almost empty beach. Talking to a local, he explains that for Jordanians the entrance is free (so our receptionist was almost right). Now it's on time to challenge the sign telling us we can't swim. It's more or less right, it gets physically challenging to swim in this oily thick water. We give up and now our mission is to find the most funny pose for lying on the surface and to get muddy. There is a huge business about the mud. You can buy it in every shop in Jordan, in a different variation and in different price range (if you want a quality go for Glory Dead Sea Quality Products brand, they use most reasonable ingredients in their products). Floating bellow sea level is quite funny and relaxing, so we stay for a while.

When our skin gets itchy from all the salt, we get a shower (it's better to get it outside than in a smelly cloakrooms) and we are on the way to our next stop - Mount Nebo and Madaba. We arrive just in time for a sunset and we enjoy a view from this biblical hill (entrance is not included in Jordan pass, but the view worth it). 

a view from Nebo, with gypsy camping cars
an ancient form of security doors - you simply roll them out

Our plan for Madaba is short and easy - sleepover, check some mosaic and city, do some shopping and we will head to the capital, Amman, that is much different than other cities in Jordan.

different forms of sugar for breakfast
a church with first map of a world
a view from one of the roofs
archeological museum
one of expositions.. you can go where you want
this is how you get fresh barrel of water, from the tap :-)


Zážitky pro tebe sepsala Monika

23. 12. 2018, poslední aktualizace 2018-12-23T18:50:29+01:00

Monika a procestovala 27 zemí světa, nejvíce Evropu a Asii. Na Cestujlevne je už 10 měsíců, napsala pro tebe 5 cestopisů . Má své stránky https://www.instagram.com/monikazemkova/.

4 komentáře

Komentuj, hodnoť nebo se na cokoliv zeptej.

Avatar uživatele Jiří Macháček
Jiří Macháček

Moc děkuji za celou sérii čtivých a inspirativních příběhů! Praktické informace nám pomohly při plánování naší blížící se cesty ☺️

před 8 měs
Avatar uživatele jp3911

Naprosto nepoužitelný cestopis, navíc autorka jich sepsala několik, téměř totožné a opravdu angličtina nezaručí, že budou "světové". Děs běs.

před 10 měs

Autorka navštíví jednu zemi a udělá z toho asi deset cestopisů - co jedno město, to cestopis. Kdyby to tu tak dělal každý, tak potěš koště. Navíc to není v češtině. Přečte si to vůbec někdo kromě rodiny dotyčné autorky (a pár rejpalů)? Kdyby aspoň nešlo o Jordánsko, ze kterého se dle četnosti zdejších cestopisů stává Chorvatsko blízkého východu. :-)

před 10 měs
Avatar uživatele Deny

Co někoho pudí psát na český server cestopisy v cizím jazyce, který navíc dobře neovládá?

před 10 měs
Avatar uživatele

Nechceš klikat? Přidej se mezi nás! (pokud nejsi robot)


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Yes, we are! And they close at 8... Can we make it in time?

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